Happy Labor Day Weekend!

This week we’re going to focus on two new glass pours that we’ve brought on to the Café wine list.

We always like to keep a  Cabernet Franc somewhere on the Café’s glass pour list.  Moving on from the Philippe Grange Vin de Pays d’Oc , we wanted to return to the region best known for 100% Cab Franc, the Loire Valley.  From the Cave de Saumur, a well-known winemaking co-op, hails the 2009 Saumur-Champigny Lieu-dit Les Vignoles.  Of Cab Franc, Wine Director Cyril Frechier, “loves how it can be great aged, but also wonderfully bright when it’s young.”  In this glass you get can smell that tell-tale black and red fruit with green bell pepper, a bit of campfire smoke and a dash of menthol.  The texture is amazing though!  It’s silky, but has very distinct tannins that give a very pleasant, almost furry quality.  The flavors are heavy on somewhat tart black fruit with a good acidity to balance.  You might compare it to a Chinon Cab Franc, but this Saumur-Champigny is a little darker on the fruit, silkier, perhaps a bit less concentrated than the Chinon.

Let’s move south from the Loire to Bordeaux.  We usually have two Bordeaux reds on the glass pour list in the Café, and unfortunately the 2003 Potensac, a favorite of staff and guests alike, is no longer available.  It served the role as the more expensive, more complex of the two Bordeaux we offer, complementing the 2006 Premiére Cotes de Blaye Château Les Grands Marechaux.  To take the place of the Potensac, we would like to introduce you to a very drinkable Bordeaux, the 2006 Château d’Arcins Cru Bourgeois from Haut-Médoc.  From the same left bank region of Bordeaux as the Potensac, the d’Arcins boasts a mellower Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend.  Slighted by the outstanding 2005 vintage, a lot of people have judged 2006 as a let down.  On the contrary, the cooler 2006 season still produced some wonderful wine.  First contact with the Château d’Arcins is an earthy nose of saddle, ripe black fruit, black licorice root, a bit of cocoa and a bit of cedar.  On the palate, it’s a full-bodied, round wine with strong (classically Bordeaux) tannins.  There’s a bit of mint at the beginning with black fruit and licorice throughout.  Some left bank Bordeaux reds can be a little too strong or too high structure to be comfortably sipped on without food accompaniment; This is not one of those wines.  Each sip has just enough tannins to draw you back into another. And another.

Welcome to the second week our Campagne and Café Campagne’s Weekly Wine Blog!

Let’s start with wine of a new era.  This week we’ve brought our first 2009 vintage from the Rhône valley onto the wine list in the form of the Selection Laurence Féraud Côtes du Rhône. Laurence Féraud is the producer from the illustrious Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine du Pegau, one of wine expert Robert Parker’s favorites in the region.  ”Selection” means the wine is négociant style, a unique blend of grapes from unspecified parts of the Rhône valley, rather than being from a specific domaine or AOC.  This is classic young Rhône from a very ripe vintage (thanks to the hot, long summer of 2009).  On the nose you find the tell-tale black cherry and licorice with intense charred wood.  The palate is full-bodied with round, polished tannins with flavors of sweet black licorice, blackberry, black cherry and violet.  This wine has a long, lingering finish too, so you still savor eat well after each sip.

What does it mean to have a colder or warmer season in the Rhône valley?  With warmer weather the grapes ripen more and the wine has more of the dark fruit flavors (blackberry, black cherry) and more of the black licorice that we recognize in a lot of southern Rhône wines.  The colder season doesn’t quite get to the depth of licorice flavor, which usually comes off as black or white pepper that is so often associated with Syrah.

The other new bottle we’re really excited about is an uncharacteristic Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire valley.  The 2006 “Attitude” Sauvignon Blanc from Domaine Pascal Jolivet.  And yes, I said 2006.  It’s really quite uncommon for Sauv Blancs to be aged, largely because the fruity, primary flavors that make them so popular get lost over time, often leaving an unappetizing, overly acidic and unbalanced wine.  Interestingly, Jolivet has managed to age the “Attitude” Sauv Blanc in such a way that it remains surprisingly balanced.  The first taste brings up tropical fruit and citrus, orange peel and baked orange.  The age provides an impressive mid-palate complexity that combines peach and mango flavors with a richer, oilier texture.  According to the producer, the wine isn’t oaked at all, but there’s a creaminess to the texture that makes you second guess that.  It turns out that it is produced in stainless steel after all, and develops that characteristic from the aging alone.  The long finish is silky and perfumed. This is one of those Vins de Pays that pleasantly surprises almost everone who tries it. Made from grapes primarily from the Touraine region and produced by Jolivet in Sancerre, we’re offering it by the glass downstairs in the Café!

Here at Campagne and Café Campagne, we’re starting a new weekly blog feature to talk about the exciting new wines that our wine director, Cyril Frechier, has brought on to our list.

We’ll start with a wine that Cyril rates as “excellent, plus.”  The 2005 François Chidaine Montlouis Sur Loire Moelleux just arrived in Seattle in recent weeks.  Where to start when talking about this gem of a wine?  Let’s start with the producer.

François Chidaine is one of the foremost wine producers in Vouvray and Montlouis sur Loire.  His wines are categorized as biodynamic (a unique cousin of organic).  This wine, late harvest Chenin Blanc (the definition of “Moelleux), of course has the high levels of residual sugar you would expect from this type of wine, placing it squarely in the off-dry to sweet category.

The nose has burnt sugar, honey, anjou pear, and the citrus floral hints of lime blossom.  On the palate, Cyril describes it as “long and beautiful,” flowery with ripe honey, burnt caramel and quince.  The mouthfeel is elegant, almost ethereal.

Above all, this is not really a wine you find very frequently, but to pair with foie gras or classic sea scallops with beurre blanc would be fantastic.

The second new wine on our list is one that Cyril is personally excited to add.  An old friend of Cyril’s, David Autrey of Westrey winery focuses primarily on Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris.  We’ve just recently brought on his 2007 Westrey Pinot Noir, Justice vineyard (Eola-Amity Hills).  Although the 2007 Oregon vintages weren’t particularly well-reviewed by the widespread press, Cyril, along with many others in the industry, find the cooler temperatures of that year to produce a different, very pleasant type of Oregon Pinot Noir.  Compared to other recent vintages, 2007 tends to be less opulent showing restrained alcohol and elegance.

The nose evokes dark cherry, woodsmoke and toast while the palate brings much more acidity than one might expect.  A ripe entry with a medium to full body, a cranberry and tart cherry provide red fruit notes with a moderate and balanced alcohol.  You’ll find some telltale chalk and limestone in there, with a sneak of plum as well.  The finish is medium to long, but bright and uplifting the whole way.

We hope you’ll check in next week to read about other new addtions!

In a previous post, we talked a little bit Provence’s history and culture.  Then we introduced the three course dinner feature for the month of May that focuses on the culinary traditions of Provence.  Now let’s talk about everyone’s favorite part: wine!

Our wine director, Cyril Frechier, has selected two whites, two rosés, and two reds to offer by the glass, plus a rare bottle feature, to highlight the diversity of Provence’s wines.

The whites begin with the 2007 Domaine Sorin La Sergine, a mixture of rolle (also known as vermentino in Italy), semillon and ugni blanc.  The nose is nutty and rich, with peach, nectarine, yellow apple and floral notes.  To the taste it is dry with light acidity (provided by the ugni blanc), richness in the middle (provided by the semillon), and a medium-full body with flavors of bitter almond.  Although not advertised as such, it is a biodynamic wine.
The second white is the 2007 Commanderie de la Bargemone made from grenache blanc and ugni blanc.  Orange, lemon, apply, honey, melon,  and citrus peel make up the bouquet.  In contrast to the Sorin, the Bargemone is lighter with more citrus and more limestone, creating a more mineral profile with good length and a higher acidity.

One of my favorite rosés, the 2009 Sable d’Azur has lovely flavors of citrus, orange and unripe cherry.  The grenache, cinsault and syrah blend makes for a mineral, crisp, dry flavor with orange peel notes. Incredibly drinkable, this is served upstairs at Campagne restaurant by the glass as well.  It is my go-to patio rosé.
An equally beautiful bottle is the 2009 Domaine Sorin Terra Amata, a blend grenache and the Provençal mainstay varietal, mourvèdre.   Young strawberries and aromatics dance over light citrus notes on the nose.  The flavors are fuller, starting with peach pit and red fruit, finishing clean, fresh and mineral.

The reds are fantastic, too.  the 2005 Mas de la Dame La Gourmande is also biodynamic and is a 50-50 mix of grenache and syrah.  Here you smell baked plum, plum pie, cassis and a bit of woodsmoke, although the wine is not barreled.  The body is medium-full with moderate tannins and high acidity, creamy with dry notes of cocoa, chocolate, and even a bit of cinnamon.
The other red is deep and luscious, the 2005 Triennes is a mix of cabernet sauvignon, syrah and merlot, which is a little bit odd for Provence. Again the nose is that funky black fruit, cassis, cedar, black olive and hints of cherry.  The cabernet sauvignon provides great tannins to go with the chocolate, smoky flavor of the wine.

The Domaine Sorin Bandol, 80% mourvèdre is offered only by the bottle, but is well worth it.  Mourvèdre is another voluptious southern red that pairs disarmingly well with meat.  Those enticing flavors of a full bodied red that you’ve come to love are here in spades: leather, barnyard and animal notes with high tannins.

We hope that you get to come in to visit and taste the abundance of one of my favorite regions, Provence.

Have you ever wanted to try a really great wine for the price of a really nice wine?

This Thursday, May 6th, you’ll get that chance.

Follow us on Twitter (http://twitter.com/Cafe_Campagne) and tune in on Thursday morning to get the special Twitter Thursday password.  
Call us and make a reservation for dinner that night with the password (or just apply it to an existing reservation for that night) and you’ll get the 2004 Étienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet La Garenne at a generous price.  If it were on our wine list (this is an exclusive offering that is in our cellar but not on our wine list) it would be priced at around $225 a bottle.  With the Twitter Thursday password, you’ll have the rare opportunity to have a bottle with your dinner* for only $125.

About Étienne Sauzet, Clive Coates says in his Wines of Burgundy:

“Gérard Boudot, married to a granddaughter of the late Étienne Sauzet and brother-in-law of Henri and Jean-Marc Boillot, is one of Puligny’s most gifted winemakers.  He produced his thirty-second vintage in 2005.  He now works with his daughter Émilie and her husband Benoît Riffault.  In the late 1990s, he compensated for what he had lost when some of the Sauzet domaine passed to Jean-Marc by acquiring a merchant’s license. Everything is vinified and stored in the same cellar.  Splendid wines are here. Only white wines are produced.  They are vinified at about 20 degrees Celsius; bâtonnage takes place “if necessary.”  The premiers crus and grands crus are bottled after 18 months.”

A reviewer from cellartracker.com says:
“Divine aromas of key lime, quince, white peach, limestone and fresh flowers are explosive, while the flavors are still remarkably tight across the palate, with layers of ripe pulpy white fruits that develop breadth as they cross the palate. The finish adds in the minerality and Sauzet’s typical intense acidity. This is divine…”

*-with the purchase of two main course dishes.  Only 4 bottles available.

May is the time when we begin to peek around the corner of springtime to glimpse the simple pleasures of summer.  In the spirit of anticipation of these aestival joys, Chef Daisley Gordon and Sommelier Cyril Frechier will be touring the sun-drenched region of Provence in southeastern France.  Throughout the month the café will offer three courses and a selection of wines intended to showcase the colorful diversity of Provence’s cuisine and viniculture.

Join us on Wednesday, May 19th, when Chef Gordon will add a special hors d’oeuvre course to accompany May’s featured three course menu, celebrating the bounty of Provence.  Cyril will personally pair our featured wines with these dishes and discuss the region and its venerable wine heritage.

Reservations are limited to 24 guests, and the cost is $85 per person, including food, wine, tax and gratuity.

Reservations are only available by calling the Café at 206-728-2233.

Beaujolias Nouveau fever is about to break out the world over, although received with much yawn from our local press and pundits (too sophisticated I presume) this phenomenon still holds sway in diverse cultures around the world. From Japan, to Europe, India and of course the US sommeliers, cavistes and consumers await the new wine, eager to take part in the celebration of the newest  harvest, to take pleasure in the somewhat symbolic  act of sharing wine with friends and complete strangers from around the globe.

Long before fast airplanes and trains the local cafés and bistros of Beaujolais and Lyons would offer the young wine straight out of barrels (they still do), nothing fancy but with enough fanfare and reverence to inspire other cities in France to take on the tradition. Nowadays, it is hard to separate the logistical and marketing feat that Beaujolais Nouveau is from its true meaning, but every so often one needs to set aside cynicism and let be seduced by the simple pleasures of life.

I’m planning on doing just that this coming Thursday, hope you can join.

Cyril

White Beaujolais

Although 99% of the vineyard land is planted to the red producing grape Gamay noir à jus blanc variety, the Pays Beaujolais also produces also a delicious white made with chardonnay.  The predominantly granite and schist based soils are indeed ideal for gamay, bringing forth the austere minerality and bright red- fruit character of red Beaujolais. The best whites however, come from the northerly, limestone chalk and calcium-clay-rich soils underlying the red Cru Saint Amour and vineyards adjacent to the Maconnais appellation.  The wines tend to be weightier than straight Macon, with fleshy stone fruit and grilled almond notes. They are a perfect match to the charcuterie and rich sauces found in the countless bouchons and restaurants in neighboring Lyon.

Cyril

Is rosé wine nothing more than the illegitimate offspring of a red and white wine?

Well, yes, according to a pending European Union ruling that rosé may be produced by blending small amounts of red wine with white. As can be imagined, producers across France are up in arms at this misguided bureaucratic attempt to sacrifice tradition and quality to satisfy market demands. The global popularity of rosé has steadily increased over the years and recently reached a milestone with worldwide sales accounting for one tenth of total wine trade. Everyone is now getting into the game, from Australia to Whidbey Island, rosé production is the latest trend in winemaking.

But it hasn’t always been so.

France’s long love affair with pink wine goes back decades; the enduring popularity of the wine is a testament to its unique character and versatility. France produces a third of the world’s rosés, the Provence region responsible for three-quarters of production. Other important regions include Bordeaux, the Rhone and Loire valleys and increasingly the Languedoc.

At Campagne, we have long appreciated rosé’s ability to combine a fruity, playful nature with refreshing minerality and rich concentration of summer flavors. Each regional styles then characterized by varietal selection, climate and soil composition. No amount of tinkering with red and white blends could replace the sense of place and authenticity that these wines bring to our tables.

We launch our summer rosé love fest on Friday June 12 with a selection from Provence, Cotes du Rhone, Languedoc, the Loire Valley and Burgundy. Drink Pink runs from 4:00 – 7:00 pm in Campagne’s Courtyard. The cost of admission is $15 and includes your first glass of Rose and passed Provencal appetizers.

Of the many trips I have taken to France, one of the most memorable was a three week tour of Provence in September of 2005.  The first few days were non-stop rain, which actually gave me a chance to get a bit of rest.  The balance of the trip was blessed with the kind of sunshine and beauty you can only find in the south of France.

It seemed that at so many of the  small cafes  and  restaurants we visited, we were treated to a little snack of black olive tapenade on or with crostini.  These little tastes added to the enjoyment of the  fantastic pink wines of the region.  I want to share a bit of that experience with you.  Join us every Friday in Campagne’s lounge for a special Provence  happy hour from 5PM to 7PM.  We will feature great pink wines, special cocktails and complimentary southern French snacks.

Hope to see you,

Daisley